Monday 14.10.2024
Summary:
Trekking Manang – Shree Kharka
Start: 08:00, 3560m
Finish: 12:00, 4070m
Weather: partly cloudy, cool in the morning, warm during the day, leggings under shorts and long-sleeved shirt in the morning, leggings off soon after departure
Drink: 1,2L
Expenses: 250 (Coke at the hostel)
Just above Manang were three large igloo looking geodesic tents. They were part of a higher end quest house called High Camp. The previous guests had already left, and we were able to look around the huts. The igloos offered great views, private toilet and shower facilities and a kettle. Amrit asked the maintenance man on site for the price, and he said it would have cost Rs 3500 (€24) for locals and Rs 6000 (€41) for foreigners. Whether this was per room or per person, and to what extent it was just a rough estimate, remained unclear.
After a couple of hours, we stopped for a break at Khangsar at 3790 metres. From the restaurant we had a spectacular view of the valley. It was a great spot to chill for a while and enjoy a bottle of Coke.
Shree Kharka was surprisingly busy when we arrived. There were several cyclists and at least a dozen mountain bikes outside one of the guesthouses. The inn was also full and in the evening the dining room, heated by a stove, was packed to capacity. The internet refused to work at all and some of the sockets for charging were not working properly either. However, you have to spend time in the dining room until it is time to go to bed. Going to bed really early is a bit of an issue. Although one probably falls asleep fairly easily after being outside all day, you’ll probably end up waking in the middle of the night at least to use the toilet. Falling asleep again for the remaining few hours before breakfast can turn out to be real challenge.
Tuesday 15.10.2024
Summary:
Trekking Shree Kharka – Tilicho Base Camp
Start: 08:30, 4070m
Finish: 11:10, 4200m
Weather: sunny, shorts and long-sleeved shirt
Drink: 1,2 L
Expenses: 300 (Coke at the lodge), 300 (hot shower)
Today’s route was already mostly visible from Shree Kharkha. It was a narrow path carved into the mountainside, climbing slowly towards Tilicho Base Camp. The first part of the section was downhill, which was slow going due to loose gravel. Most of the route was gently uphill and we were proceeding at a fairly brisk pace. There were no villages along the way, but there was a small restaurant halfway along the route where you could get drinks and snacks if needed.
Today there were trekkers in both directions, as some were already returning from Lake Tilicho. There were also a lot of locals on the route. It was festival season in Nepal at the moment and many people were on holiday. Lake Tilicho is apparently a sacred site. The locals come as far as they can by motorised transport (presumably by car to Manang or by motorbike to Khangsar) and walk a few days in each direction to visit Lake Tilicho. Our accommodation was again sold out by noon and the village was already packed. The locals head back towards Manang, though, and we probably won’t see them again the day after tomorrow as we continue towards Thorong La Pass.
Tilicho Base Camp had a surprising number of large guest houses, so a lot of food, drink, gas and other supplies are needed. With no access other than the narrow gravel path, mule caravans passed along the path throughout the day. As we were basking in the sun in the courtyard of our guesthouse, one of these caravans brought supplies to our guesthouse. Suddenly there were a dozen fully loaded mules in the courtyard and the personnel started unloading their loads.
In the evening we had dinner and spent time in the full, but warm, dining room. The electricity went off intermittently and the internet was very slow and intermittent. The next day’s program would start early, waking up at 03:30, breakfast at 04:00 and leaving at 04:30.
