{"id":13050,"date":"2026-08-02T08:33:59","date_gmt":"2026-08-02T08:33:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/traveltales.ahot.online\/?p=13050"},"modified":"2026-08-07T15:06:17","modified_gmt":"2026-08-07T15:06:17","slug":"sa-pantanal-en","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/traveltales.ahot.online\/index.php\/2026\/08\/02\/sa-pantanal-en\/","title":{"rendered":"Pantanal, Brazil"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Cuiab\u00e1 and Pantanal 26.6. \u2013 2.7.2026<\/p>

After midday, we hopped into an Uber from the Mercury Hotel and drove to the airport. Manaus International Airport wasn\u2019t all that big, but it did have a lounge where we could wait for our flight to depart. Our flight didn\u2019t leave until around four in the afternoon, and it foolishly flew right past Cuiab\u00e1 only to land at Viracopos Airport near S\u00e3o Paulo. We had a layover there and had to fly back along practically the same route halfway before we finally landed at Cuiab\u00e1 Airport at 1:30 in the middle of the night. There simply isn\u2019t a direct flight between Manaus and Cuiab\u00e1.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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At Viracopos airport again<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Guess which airline we flew with!<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We stayed at Hotel Inter Cuiab\u00e1, and we managed to get some sleep before heading out to check out the breakfast buffet. By this point, Risto had already been complaining of a headache, so for breakfast he made do with some painkillers, a little juice, bread, and yogurt. Since we\u2019d just been on a trip to the Amazon, we decided to play it safe and head to a nearby local health center\u2014which was free even for tourists\u2014to find out what was bothering Risto.<\/p>

The health center was surprisingly large, but its standard was quite different from similar facilities in Finland. The eSIM card Marko had purchased came in handy right away, since not a single person there spoke English. They did understand Spanish, but they only spoke Portuguese back to us, so there was a noticeable language barrier.<\/p>

First, we were taken to a room where a nurse assessed how urgent our case was. At this point, Risto\u2019s temperature was taken for the first time. No fever, thanks to the pain killer. Then, marked with a green tag, we were sent back to the waiting room to wait until Risto\u2019s name appeared on the board. Those with a red tag were seen by a doctor immediately; those with a green tag had to wait a little longer. Before his name even had a chance to appear on the board, Risto threw up, and all the orange juice from that morning flew in an arc onto the floor. We tried asking if there was any paper somewhere to clean up the mess, but we were told that wasn\u2019t our job. Cleaners would arrive a little later to take care of the mess. Strangely enough, at that point, plenty of empty space suddenly appeared around us on the rows of benches in the waiting room…<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Our hotel was located right near the city center, and it was only a 10-minute walk to the health center.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Privacy protection is a little different here in Brazil.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Soon Risto was called in to see the doctor, who took his temperature a second time (still no fever), prescribed a few different medications for home treatment, and also ordered some lab tests for Risto. Once again, we returned to the waiting room to wait for Risto\u2019s name to appear on the board again. At this point, Risto\u2019s fever began to rise, and by the time we got to the lab tests, his fever was so high that we were referred to another pediatrician for a new consultation. So at this point, his temperature was taken for the third time. The other pediatrician, who even knew a few words of English, took his temperature for the fourth time and prescribed Risto fever-reducing medication administered directly into a vein so that the blood tests could be taken. So we made our way through the waiting room again to a new treatment room, where all the patients were sitting with IVs in their arms. Apparently, it\u2019s common practice here to administer medication intravenously very readily, as none of the patients seemed to be seriously ill at all.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Waiting for the fever to go down. Fortunately, the children also had beds where they could wait for the medication to be administered intravenously.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We waited half an hour for the medication to be administered intravenously, after which Risto\u2019s temperature was taken for the fifth time. His fever was still too high, so a cold compress was placed on his forehead, and cotton balls moistened with alcohol (!!) were placed under his armpits to bring down his fever. About twenty minutes later, his temperature was taken again\u2014this time for the sixth time. The reading was still too high for lab tests, so Risto continued to lie there for another 20 minutes. They tried to take his temperature a seventh time, but the thermometer gave a completely wrong reading. They fetched a new thermometer, but its batteries were dead. It wasn\u2019t until the ninth thermometer that they got readings from Risto that allowed them to draw the blood samples that had been ordered earlier. A couple of full vials later, we made it back to the hotel with the medications in our bag, waiting to hear the blood test results after eight in the evening.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Finally, we're getting to the blood tests. For some reason, the empty IV bag was still carried along.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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It had only been an hour since we returned to the hotel when Risto\u2019s fever began to rise rapidly again. We gave him one of the fever-reducing medications prescribed by the doctor, and Jaana went back to the health center to ask if a malaria test had been included in the blood tests, but she was told that the health center couldn\u2019t perform that test. To our surprise, they told us we\u2019d have to go to the local university hospital for the test. So Jaana and Risto took an Uber there, while Marko and Ronja stayed at the hotel.<\/p>

At the hospital gates, Jaana and Risto were told that malaria tests weren\u2019t performed at all on weekends. The security guard directed them to a pharmacy a short distance away, where they were told rapid tests were available. The friendly security guard ordered them a ride and even paid for it himself. (Well, the ride didn\u2019t actually cost more than a euro.) At the pharmacy, Jaana and Risto were told that they were out of tests. They were advised to go to the health center, where we had already been that morning. At this point, Jaana told the pharmacy staff that the health center apparently had no malaria tests available, so they were recommended to go to a maternity clinic as a second option. At this point, however, Jaana and Risto decided to return to the hotel, check the results of the blood tests taken at the health center, and then figure out what to do next. Over the weekend, it seems that you can\u2019t get a malaria test done anywhere, at least not in the public healthcare system. It could be that Risto is suffering from some other illness anyway. Even back home in Finland, Risto usually starts out with a very high fever, which then goes down, and by the next day there\u2019s no sign of the illness. Let\u2019s hope that\u2019s the case this time, too.<\/p>

At eight o\u2019clock in the evening, Jaana returned to the health center to hear the results. The receptionist first said that the results would only be disclosed to the person concerned. To that, Jaana replied that the person in question was sleeping at a hotel with a high fever, and she had no intention of dragging the actual patient all the way here for no good reason. As the mother, Jaana said she was fully entitled to hear the results. At that point, the receptionist printed out a single A4-sized sheet of paper for Jaana and wished her a good evening. Jaana then stated that she wouldn\u2019t leave until she\u2019d spoken with the doctor, since that\u2019s what we\u2019d been promised earlier that morning when we visited the clinic. The receptionist re-entered Risto\u2019s information into the system and said that Jaana could go knock on the doctor\u2019s door right away. The doctor wasn\u2019t in his office, but after a short wait, he arrived. Another pediatrician joined them; in addition to understanding English, he also spoke the language quite fluently. Both pediatricians agreed that, based on the test results, Risto simply had a more virulent virus that would likely clear up in a few days. In their opinion, there was nothing preventing us from leaving for the Pantanal. If the fever and feeling unwell persisted even after the trip, we would need to go to the hospital for malaria and dengue tests. By then it would be a weekday, and getting the tests done would be no problem.<\/p>

The following night, Risto still had a fairly high fever and ran to the bathroom several times, but by morning the fever was gone. Maybe the fever reducer he took during the night helped\u2014who knows. Risto still didn\u2019t have an appetite for breakfast, so he stayed in the room to sleep while the rest of us went out to eat. As a souvenir from breakfast, Risto got a single roll, which he obediently nibbled on in the hotel room before we left for the Pantanal.<\/p>

We asked our driver to stop first at a pharmacy so we could buy Risto some Paracetamol\u2014a medication he was more familiar with\u2014to replace the local fever reducer prescribed by the doctor, which isn\u2019t available in Finland. We also bought a thermometer for the trip, as well as a powder to mix with water, which would give Risto some energy and electrolytes.<\/p>

The journey to our lodgings in the Pantanal was surprisingly long. We first traveled for two hours by car, after which we hopped aboard a small motorboat and sped down the river for another two hours. We arrived around one o\u00b4clock in the afternoon, and almost immediately afterward we were served a delicious lunch.<\/p>

We stayed at a small guesthouse-style place by the river with a Polish couple. We had our own five-person room, and the Polish couple had a two-person room. Both rooms were located on the ground floor of the main building. The owner apparently had her own quarters on the upper floor of the building. Another option would have been to spend the night on a boat moored on the river, but we didn\u2019t want to stay there because they only offered small double rooms.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The road ended here, and we continued our journey by boat for two hours.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We stayed on the ground floor of the main building.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Another option would have been to sleep on an old riverboat.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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There was plenty of room in the room for all of us.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Part of the breakfast menu<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Since there were only six guests in total, we were able to sit comfortably around the same table. The site could accommodate fifteen guests, and an annex for 12 people was under construction.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Even at lunch, Risto ate nothing but rice and a single slice of bread, but the main thing was that he ate something at least. There were definitely small signs of improvement in the air, as Risto was interested in the free drinks in the building\u2019s common area fridge, as well as the candy we\u2019d bought earlier at the store. After lunch, we took a short break in our cool, air-conditioned room. In addition to the cool room, we were all pleasantly surprised to find that the place had a working internet connection. This made communicating with the owners much easier, since they only spoke Portuguese and a little Spanish. So Google Translate came in handy here, too.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The fridge is full of drinks. At this point, Risto is still replenishing his electrolytes.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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After our siesta, we headed into the forest with our guide, Wellington, to spot animals. He only spoke Portuguese and a little Spanish, so Google Translate was a big help when he told us about the animals we saw. We didn\u2019t take Risto along on this two-hour hike, since we figured it would be better for him to rest in his room so he\u2019d have the energy to go jaguar spotting the next day. In just under two hours, we saw far more animals than we had seen during our entire time in the Amazon. We saw several different groups of monkeys climbing in the trees. It was really hard to get photos or videos of them, though, because they were hiding so effectively in the treetops among the foliage. In addition to the monkeys, we saw many different birds, as well as lots of capybaras. We also spotted a tiny capybara in the yard of our lodging after the sun had set. We also spotted a caiman lounging in a wetland. We\u2019d actually already spotted nearly a dozen of them from the boat on our way there. Wellington also showed us some jaguar paw prints on the ground. It was actually a good thing we didn\u2019t run into a jaguar itself on this hike. That might have been a bit too nerve-wracking of an encounter. In addition to these larger animals, we encountered an insane number of mosquitoes, which, despite the mosquito repellent, kept trying to get a little too close for comfort. Luckily, the Pantanal isn\u2019t in a malaria-risk area!<\/p>

In the evening, we had dinner. The adults were served fish with cheese, and the hostess had fried chicken for the kids. This meal, too, was absolutely delicious! I should also mention that both meals included dessert. That was delicious as well.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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This time, I didn't break a sweat while walking, but there were many times more mosquitoes than in the Amazon.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We tasted these fruits\/berries, but they were still unripe. When ripe, they are sweet and purple.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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First we saw some capybara droppings, and then a whole family of capybaras on their way to the river.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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